Vast granite monoliths and prominent sandstone canyons in North America
North America is where modern climbing really came into its own, and the continent still offers an enormous range, from desert towers to alpine granite that draws climbers from all over the world.
The variety here can suit almost any style. Some climbers head for big granite walls that take a full day or more to complete, testing both skill and patience. Others prefer shorter days on sunny sport routes, often within easy reach of a good meal afterward. Beginners have no shortage of gyms and guided crags to start on, while veterans can spend years working through the continent's toughest test pieces. Seasons vary a lot by region, so picking the right time of year matters.
The climbing destinations on our list for North America combine famous areas that shaped the sport with quieter spots that still fly under the radar. Whatever your level, there is likely a wall here worth the trip.
Under the Sierra Nevada, the Buttermilks hold huge granite boulders in sunny, high desert air. Climbers visit from autumn to spring when the days are cool. The Owens River Gorge adds sport routes on volcanic rock. Natural hot springs outside town soothe tired hands and sore legs after long days.
Red sandstone towers like Castleton Tower and the Fisher Towers rise from the desert near Moab. Indian Creek, about an hour south, is famous for long, straight cracks. Spring and autumn bring mild temperatures. After a day on the rock, local cafés serve big breakfasts.
The Grand Teton rises 4,199 metres above Jackson Hole. Exum Mountain Guides has led climbers up its Owen-Spalding route since 1931. The jagged granite peaks rise straight from the valley with no foothills. Jenny Lake is the usual starting point. Climbing season runs through July and August.
The Stawamus Chief is a granite dome that rises 700 metres above Howe Sound. Its Grand Wall has clean cracks and slabs. Squamish sits an hour north of Vancouver on the Sea to Sky Highway. Many climbers camp at the base of the Chief. Bald eagles often hunt along the river in winter.
Pockets and edges on dark syenite boulders have made Hueco Tanks a world famous bouldering spot. Daily permits limit the number of visitors. Guided tours are required for North Mountain. Pictographs by ancient peoples decorate the rock. Winter brings cool, dry weather for climbing, with the busiest season from November to March.
Limestone walls rise from the desert outside Hidalgo, Nuevo León. Hundreds of bolted sport routes make this a winter refuge for climbers. Time Wave Zero is a 23 pitch route to the top of El Toro. Campsites and cafés are close to the crags. Days are sunny and mild from November to March.
Sandstone walls stand up to 600 metres tall in Zion Canyon. Big wall routes like Moonlight Buttress follow splitter cracks. Climbers often bring crack gear and sleep on ledges. Desert varnish makes streaks of black and orange on the cliffs. Spring and autumn give mild weather before the summer heat.
Devils Tower rises 265 metres above the plains. In 1906 it was declared a national monument. Climbers voluntarily avoid it in June out of respect for Native American ceremonies. In the Wind River Range, granite spires fill remote basins. Ten Sleep Canyon has sport routes on limestone.
At 6,190 metres, Denali is the highest peak in North America. Most climbers fly from Talkeetna to the Kahiltna Glacier. The West Buttress route takes about two to three weeks. The season runs from May to July, when the days are long. Temperatures can drop far below freezing even in summer.
Camp 4 has been the climbers' campsite in Yosemite Valley since the 1950s. It is walking distance from El Capitan and the Cookie Cliff. In Tuolumne Meadows, smooth granite domes offer friction and crack routes. Spring and autumn bring mild temperatures. Summer afternoons can be hot in the valley.
Limestone peaks like Mount Rundle rise above the town of Banff. Summer brings scrambles and alpine routes. In winter, frozen waterfalls form blue ice climbs in the Rockies. The Bow Valley around Canmore has sport crags too. Climbers warm up with hot springs at the end of the day.
Whistler Mountain has a via ferrata, a route of steel rungs and cables for beginners. Black Tusk, a black volcanic spire in Garibaldi Provincial Park, is a classic scramble. Squamish, with its famous granite, is only an hour south. Summer brings long days for alpine routes.
Turquoise water sits below the Victoria Glacier at Lake Louise. Climbers walk past the shore to Back of the Lake, a limestone crag with short routes. In winter, Louise Falls freezes into a classic ice climb. Mount Temple towers above the valley. Hot chocolate at the Fairmont warms hands afterwards.
Red River Gorge is a forest of sandstone cliffs with steep walls and big hand holds. Climbers have gathered at Miguel's Pizza after a day on the rock for decades. Autumn brings cool, dry air and colourful leaves. Muir Valley and Pendergrass Murray offer many routes close to the road.
Giant sequoia trees stand beside granite peaks in the High Sierra. Mount Whitney, at 4,421 metres, is the highest peak in the lower 48 states. Climbers choose the East Face or the Mountaineer's Route. Kings Canyon has remote domes like Charlotte Dome. Permits are needed in summer.
Ski planes from Talkeetna land climbers on glaciers beneath granite spires in the Ruth Gorge. Walls of ice and rock rise more than a kilometre on both sides. Long daylight in May and June gives extra time for big routes. Sea cliffs and ice fields on the coast add more choices.
The Diamond is a vertical east face on Longs Peak, about 300 metres tall. Climbers start before dawn to avoid afternoon storms. Lumpy Ridge, a sunny granite crag near Estes Park, has shorter routes. Elk wander the meadows below the peaks in autumn, bugling in the cool morning air.
Mount Edith Cavell rises 3,363 metres above the Angel Glacier. Its north face is a classic alpine objective. In winter, frozen waterfalls turn Jasper's canyons into ice climbs. The Icefields Parkway south leads to more glacier routes. Wildlife like elk and bighorn sheep often watches from the road.
Granite walls rise straight from Tasermiut Fjord in the south. Ulamertorsuaq and Nalumasortoq have routes up walls nearly a kilometre tall. Boats from Nanortalik carry climbers to base camps. The midnight sun gives light for long days in July and August. Icebergs drift past in the water below.
The gateway to Joshua Tree National Park is about 40 minutes away. Golden granite domes and boulders rise out of the desert there. Thousands of climbs cover every grade. Winter days are mild and sunny, which makes the cooler season the busiest. Date shakes are a local treat in Indio.
Bridal Veil Falls plunges more than 100 metres at the end of the box canyon above town. In winter it freezes into an ice climb. Telluride hosts an ice festival each January. In summer, a via ferrata lets visitors climb fixed cables above the San Miguel River. Snowy peaks ring the town.
At 4,392 metres, Mount Rainier is the most glaciated peak in the lower 48 states. Most climbers start at Paradise and sleep at Camp Muir. The summit push begins in the dark, with headlamps glowing in a line up the snow. Guide services lead the Disappointment Cleaver route from May to September.
Royal Robbins and his partners climbed the northwest face of Half Dome in 1957. The wall rises about 600 metres and is split into more than 20 pitches. Hikers reach the top by a cable route in summer. Watch the granite face turn orange at sunset from Glacier Point.
Smith Rock is where sport climbing took off in America in the 1980s. Welded tuff cliffs rise above the Crooked River. Monkey Face is a 110 metre pillar with a gaping mouth. More than 1,000 routes fill the park. Spring and autumn bring sunny days and cool mornings.
The Nose has drawn climbers up El Capitan since 1958. This 900 metre granite wall takes most teams three to five days. They sleep on hanging ledges. In 2017 Alex Honnold climbed Freerider here without a rope. The Yosemite Valley floor below has a meadow for watching the climbers through binoculars.
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